by Nathan Frerin Klug Duran (Johannes Gutenberg-Universität Mainz student research placement)

As part of the practicum element of the Master’s programme at the University of Mainz, a placement-based component that gives students the opportunity to apply their academic learning in a professional setting, two students have been documenting their experience of conducting research with the Vindolanda Trust. Their tutor, Dr Catherine Teitz, has carried out research on the Eric Birley Archive and has published work exploring its significance. You can read some of her previous blogs here.

The Johannes-Gutenberg University Mainz is a long way from Vindolanda, and so I am all the more grateful to be visiting this extraordinary archaeological site as part of a Practicum course. Throughout the six days of stay I got to meet many incredible people involved with the Vindolanda Trust and had several opportunities to pester them with questions relating to my own research project. While I do appreciate the combined knowledge and experience of the archaeologists, curators and researchers working here, it is their kindness and generosity in welcoming curious master’s students from Germany that left a lasting impression on me.

Northumberland greeted us with a lot of rain and wind upon arrival, immediately proving us right about the stereotype regarding English weather. Despite that first impression, the county has proven to be full of beautiful landscapes and archaeological discoveries. My favorite part of Hadrian’s Wall must have been the bit after Housesteads and Milecastle 37. The view made the steep hike more than worth it, and I say this as someone who spends most of their time at home at their desk. All of your problems suddenly seem very small in comparison to that vast stretch of land beyond the wall.

When we were not out and about, we had the great opportunity to take a look at the Eric Birley Archive, a current work in progress that is managed by archivist Bethany, whose enthusiasm when discussing archival work was infectious. There’s something quite beautiful about learning about such an important researcher and his involvement in numerous projects that shaped the scientific discourse around Hadrian’s Wall. A personal highlight was his correspondence with German scholar Hans Schönberger, who also was curator of the Saalburgmuseum at the time, showcasing one of Eric Birley’s many contacts outside of Britain. This connection also very much exemplifies the important relationship between researchers working on Hadrian’s Wall and the Limes in the decades after World War II.

The museum here at Vindolanda exhibits the remnants of many different lives, including civilians, women and children next to the soldiers. Especially interesting to me were the pieces of personal adornment that can tell you a lot about who might have worn them, about their social status and maybe even their gender. Apart from the leather shoes, many smaller objects hint at the presence of women inside of the fort instead of just in the settlement outside of the military base. 

A walk through the site, guided by the director of excavations, gives a good impression about how life must have looked like almost 2000 years ago. A bath that was sure to make you sick, dark alleyways leading to gambling dens and a fort ditch that was used to get rid of everyday waste don’t sound very romantic, but very much encompasses parts of the human experience normally not talked about. 

I would say this was a full Vindolanda (and Hadrian’s Wall) experience, and I am very grateful I got to have a few glimpses behind the scenes (which included swinging a replica sword around for fun). I think that this visit has helped me grow as a budding researcher and offered me new perspectives on the archaeological material, which will be of great help when I go back home and start working on my thesis.